Canoeing from Loch Morar to Loch Arkaig

I recently came back from my second canoeing expedition in the highlands of Scotland. The first trip was fantastic but felt too short so we vowed to come back again but do it for longer.

Fast forward a few years and with a deep yearning to reconnect with the wilderness we (me & Wes) set off from Shropshire on the Thursday morning with our two 16' Canadian canoes and all our kit in Wes' camper.

Our plan involved getting to Loch Arkaig where we'd meet up with Giles to start the trip proper on the Sunday lunchtime so we had plenty of time for the trip up north and our first stop was to be a famous Tibetan Buddhist monastery. However as we neared we decided we couldn't wait to get off-grid so we pressed on as far north as we could. Around 9pm we crossed the hauntingly desolate Rannoch Moor and took the next left into a random Glen (this tunred out to be Glen Etive). We pulled over and as it was a mild night just slept outdoors in bags (Wes was in the van with door wide open).

The next morning was a bit colder but not wet and we got our first fix of utter wilderness.

Oh boy.

Camp night 1, not too shabby

Back into the van we went down through Glen Coe stopping briefly at Fort William for a couple of day's food and then headed straight to Arkaig where we pulled up and within minutes had the boats off the van and were having a paddle.

Heading in to moody skies

24 hours after leaving Shropshire, the eastern end of Loch Arkaig

One of Wes' mates turned out to be touring on his motorbike nearby so him and Wes hooned up along the lake for a while whilst I faffed getting some stuff ready. With that done we locked the van and got on the Loch. It was great to be on the water a day early. So we just padded up the Loch until around 8pm where we camped on a beach.

Night 2

Saturday saw us slowly paddle back to the van, pack up and head to Fort William where we bought loads of food before turning back and heading all the way to Loch Morar where we camped on its banks (after having a swift pint in Mallaig).

Now, the plan did have us starting at Arkaig, but we ditched that as the wind was westerly meaning we'd be doing 18kms on open water straight into the wind. No thanks.

So, plan changed, we're now doing Morar to Arkaig with the wind behind us. The weather forecast suggested 4 days of sleet then it becoming more mild again.

Sunday was cold. I'd bivvied in my hammock under a tarp and it was sleety all night. Morning was just the same with it coming in squalls but, thankfully, some clear bits too. Wes headed to Fort William again to pick up Giles & leave his van there, leaving me to bag up all the food and get the boats ready.

Around 1pm we were ready to leave and quickly, thanks to the tailwind, we got to our crossing point by the islands.

This was to be my first solo open water crossing and I was a tad nervous with good reason. It's around 1 mile wide and once out in the middle you're facing strong wind & as it's so open it's like being on the sea, with waves wanting to come over the side and capsize you. Very daunting.

The calm before the storm (hope not!)

I had an absolute blast.

The North Westerly wind was such a help and as it pushed us along and over the Loch. Yes it got a bit choppy at times and the sleet was an arse but I've never felt so alive. When out in the middle it was totally awesome. Like, awe inspiring awesome, that one. Words really can't describe how small one feels when sitting on 1000ft of water with 1/2  mile either side to the shore.

Humbling.

No wetsuit, wellies and 1/2 a mile to shore. What could possibly go wrong? © Giles Atkinson Photography

That done, we paddled until around 6pm and bivvied on a beach with a fire and some food.

Giles inspects our home for Sunday evening

Monday was our slacker day.

We paddled about 10 km to the end of Morar, it was a bit windy in places but nothing we couldn't handle so we got to Oban bothy around 1pm. We had the place to ourselves and there was plenty firewood about so we got a fire on, as well as collecting & chopping more wood for the people after us.

Then we settled in for the afternoon with a few beers and soaked up the atmosphere of this amazing place.

Me heading up the bay to the end of the river for a short paddle. © Giles Atkinson Photography

Wes chilling outside the bothy © Giles Atkinson Photography

I'm evidently quite enjoying myself. © Giles Atkinson Photography

Our private bay for the night

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